Abortion
An abortion is a premature expulsion of a fetus before full
gestation has elapsed. (Considine, p. 93)
For a complete summary on abortion, treatment,
prevention, how to send samples to the lab, and other information,
go to “Seminar notes” and read the notes from Reproduction and Breeding of Dairy Goats by Dr. Scott
Haskell.
There is an excellent slide show by John Plant, Veterinary
Specialist, on abortions in sheep at http://www.aasrp.org/.
It has photographs of what each disease looks like in the placenta, so
you can identify the cause of abortion if you don't have access to a veterinary
laboratory. The diseases similar in a
goat.
If a doe aborts after 141 days gestation, the fetuses have a
pretty good chance of survival. Before
that date, they generally die. (Considine, p. 93)
If a doe aborts, give antibiotics or plain penicillin SQ in
the neck, just ahead of the shoulder.
For an average size doe use 10cc.
Then give 5 more shots of 5cc. 12 hours apart. Isolate the doe until the
discharge stops so she doesn’t contaminate the other does. Clean the pen thoroughly after use. (Harvey
Considine, p. 93) (Note: Always check with your veterinarian before giving any medications)
Links
Caprine abortion http://www.cyfernet.mes.umn.edu/meatgoats/components/pdfs/CaprineAbortion_McClanahan.pdf
Abortion in goats http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/110306.htm
Abortion and Perinatal loss in Sheep and Goats http://uwadmnweb.uwyo.edu/VetSci/Courses/PATB_4110/2009_lectures/36_reproduct_sheep/HTML/Class_Notes.htm
Causes of caprine abortion: diagnostic assessment of 211 cases (1991–1998) http://jvdi.org/cgi/reprint/13/3/265.pdf
Infectious Reproductive Diseases Of Small
Ruminants http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/AH_Sheep_19.pdf
Causes of infectious abortions in goats http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/U/UNP-0079/
Age at first service
Buck: 5 months
(Smith, 440)
Doe: 7-10 months (Coffey, G, 8)
Keep bucks separate from does after 4 mo. to prevent
inseminating does that are too young.
(Coffey, G, 9)
At first breeding, doelings should weigh 60% of the average
adult weight for their breed. If they
are lighter than that, hold
them back and increase their nutrition until they are the
right weight, but do not go beyond 10 months of age or their
reproductive performance will decrease. (Harris and Springer)
|
Breed
|
Avg. Adult
Weight (lb)
|
Breeding Weight
at 60% of adult weight
|
|
Alpine
|
135
|
81 lbs.
|
|
Am. La Mancha
|
130
|
78 lbs.
|
|
Nubian
|
135
|
81 lbs.
|
|
Saanen
|
135
|
81 lbs.
|
|
Toggenburg
|
120
|
72 lbs.
|
(Average breed weights taken from Harris and
Springer)
ADGA recommends that goats weigh at least 80 pounds before
they are bred (ADGA).
Breeding does at 7 months, to freshen as yearlings,
increases their lifetime milk production. (Coffey, DG, 18)
Only about 80% of doelings (first year fresheners) will
conceive. Approximately. 95% of does that kidded the previous year
will conceive. (Hart, Goat Management Tips)
Links:
Goat reproduction: puberty and sexual maturity http://www.extension.org/pages/Goat_Reproduction_Puberty_and_Sexual_Maturity
Artificial insemination
Birthing
Birthing stages (stages of labor)
Stage 1: Dilation of the uterus
Uterine contractions force placenta, fetus and fluids
against the cervix to dilate it. This stage lasts up to 12 hours in first time fresheners. Does who have given birth
before will go through this stage more quickly.
Stage 2: Straining and delivery of kids
Contraction of abdominal muscles, lasting two hours or less,
and is completed by expulsion of the last kid.
Stage 3: Expulsion of the placenta and involution
(decrease in size) of the uterus.
Normally happens within 4 hours of birthing. (Smith,
431)
Normal presentation

Two positions are normal for single births:
1) Anterior position
Kid is head first, spine up, with both front legs extended
forward out of the birth canal. The head lays forward
on the legs, with the infant's nose about level with the
knees. Over 60% of goats are born in this position.
2) Posterior position
Kid is butt first, spine up, with both rear legs extended
out of the birth canal.
Twins
When there are twins, the first kid often comes head-first
with front legs extended toward you, and the second
with the hind legs extended toward you.
The birth canal has to be open three finger widths in order
to allow delivery of the fetus. http://www.goats4h.com/pigman.html
Kidding Photos
Difficult births
Rate: 3-5% of goats experience difficulty during birthing
(Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Signs that there is a problem with the delivery
1) Labor is not progressing.
The goat stands up and lays down repeatedly.
2)The doe seems to be trying to line up the babies inside
her, by arching her back or elevating her backside.
3) The discharge becomes "rust" colored.
4) You can see body parts, but the doe can't deliver
them.
5) The doe is in hard labor for more than 30-45 minutes, but
cannot deliver. (Pigman)
When to assist
When a doe has been in hard labor for 1/2 - 1 hour with no
results, or if the placenta has been showing for that long, then you may need
to assist her. (Smith, 431
How to assist
It is best to have someone with smaller hands assist in
delivery. Large hands can damage the birth canal. (Zimmerman) (Smith qt
432)
The vulva should be washed with milk soap before examining
the doe. You should wear gloves, use a lot of lubricant. (Smith,
432) (You can buy long, disposable OB gloves for this purpose.)
Pushing the kids back into the mother (called repelling)
gives you the room you need to adjust their position so they can birth
normally. (Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction.)
When you are assisting a birth, and are trying to sort out
the newborn’s legs, bend the knee and hoof joints on the leg. If they both bend the same direction, you
have a front leg. If they bend opposite
directions, you have a back leg. (Dr. Emma Ewing, DVM, Village Veterinary
Clinic, Bonduel, WI. Personal interview 11-14-06.)
Identify what parts of the body are in the birth canal, and
use the table below to find out what to do.
|
Abnormal Presentation
|
What To Do About It
|
|
Head first with one foreleg forward, one back
|
Reach in, gently opening the passage with your fingers if
needed. Try to locate the other front leg of this baby by sliding your
hands over the head, down the neck, shoulder and leg on the side where the
leg is turned back. Once you have the foot, pull it gently toward you
until it extends out the birth canal, and lay the head, nose toward you, on
the legs. The fetus should deliver on it's own now, but if not, then
gently provide traction by pulling slowly and gently on the legs. It helps
to remember that the knee and hoof joints bend the same way on front
legs. If they bend opposite ways, then you have a back leg.
|
|
Head first, no legs showing. The head may be swollen
and dry, it has been out for a while.
|
You don't have the option of pushing the head back in,
because of the swelling and dryness, so you have to reach around the head,
follow the neck and shoulders down to find the legs. Pull the
legs forward, and once you have a hold of them, straighten them by
pushing the kid in as far as possible, while pulling on the feet. Once
the legs and feet are straight and extending from the opening, you can assist
the delivery of the kid. The swelling of the head will go down on it's
own over time.
|
|
Head first, both legs back
|
Reach in and push the kid back in the mother so you have
enough room to work. Slide your hands over the kid's head and neck,
then go down the shoulder and follow it to the leg. Gently bring the feet
forward, one at a time. When both are forward, lay the head forward on
the legs. The fetus should deliver on it's own now, but if not, then
gently provide traction by pulling slowly and gently on the legs.
|
|
Butt first, but legs are not extended correctly. The
hocks are forward, feet back.
|
Reach in feel along the sides of the butt, to the hip and
down the legs. Free up the feet so they point toward you, and out the
birth canal. The fetus should deliver on it's own now, but if
not, then gently provide traction by pulling slowly and gently on the legs.
|
|
Butt first, but legs are not showing.
|
Push the butt in to give you room to work. Slide
your hands from the butt to the back legs, and follow the legs down to find
the feet. Pull the feet out until they stick out of the vaginal
opening. The fetus should deliver on it's own now, but if not,
then gently provide traction by pulling slowly and gently on the legs.
Make sure the legs are completely straight out before pulling. Push
butt in, while holding the feet, and that will straighten the legs fully.
|
|
Front feet are out, but the kid is laying face up instead
of face down
|
The kids needs to face down in order to pass easily
through the birth canal. Reach in and turn the kid over so it is lying
face down as much as possible. Help pull the kid as needed.
|
|
Front feet first, but head is twisted back
|
Feel along the body until you find the head. Turn
the head so that it faces you. If it keeps flopping back when you start
to pull, then take a rubber OB puller or make a "noose" with nylon
cord. Take the loop or nylon cord into the canal and place it over the kid's
head ( not around the neck.) Arrange the head on the front legs and
pull the loop taught to hold the head in place. Keeping tension on the
noose with one hand, withdraw your other hand and pull on the feet at the same
time you pull on the noose.
|
|
Two heads show, with one pair of feet
|
One goat has it's legs turned back. The second goat
is in correct position, but the first goat is blocking it's delivery.
Push the goats back into the mother to make room to work. Put your hands on
the head of the goat closest to you, and slide them over the head, down the
neck, over the shoulders and down the legs. Pull the feet toward you, then
lay the head on the legs and assist the delivery. After the first one
delivers, check the second one and correct the position as needed.
|
|
A head is showing, and feet are showing, but when you run
your hands from the head, down the neck, shoulders, legs and feet of the
first doe, you find that the feet sticking out of the doe are not the feet of
the first kid.
|
Push the second kid back far enough to make room to work
on the first goat. Put your hands on the head of the goat closest to you, and
slide them down the neck, over the shoulders and down the legs. Gently
pull the feet toward you until the legs extend out of the canal. Make
sure the head is laying on the legs. Pull gently to deliver the
kid. Check the position of the second kid and correct as needed. If the
head keeps flopping back when you start to pull the kid, then take a rubber OB
puller or make a "noose" with nylon cord. Take the loop or nylon
cord into the canal and place it over the kid's head. Arrange the head
on the front legs and pull the loop taught to hold the head in place.
Keeping tension on the noose with one hand, withdraw your other hand and pull
on the feet at the same time you pull on the noose.
|
|
No body parts showing
|
Check to see whether the birth canal is open. It
should be at least three fingers wide in order to allow birthing. If it
is not open that far, it may just be too early to deliver. Check
frequently to see whether it is opening.. If the birth canal is open,
and all you feel is the side of a kid, it may be a dead kid that has been
pushed against the opening. Push the kids back into the doe to give yourself
room to turn the first kid either head or butt first, with legs extended out
the canal, and the head on the legs. Deliver it. Check the next
kid and arrange position as needed to deliver it.
Some goats have a tail head that slopes down and blocks
the birth. In this case, the vet will have to break the tail head to
remove the kid.
|
How to tell if all babies have been delivered and the placenta has been discharged (Bumping)
1) Stand to the side of the doe.
2) Reach around and under her with your arms, and lock your
hands together under her abdomen.
3) Quickly lift her belly right in front of the udder and
allow it to fall down into your hands, which are still clasped under her.
If it feels like:
a) a thud or a falling rock, that indicates that there is a
baby in there.
b) a soft ball of doughy material, that signals that the placenta
has not passed
c) soft and flaccid (relaxed muscles) and no kids are felt,
then the goat is done birthing and the placenta is out. (Nickel, p.17)
Naval cord care
Dip cord in tincture of iodine. This prevents
infection and promotes rapid drying and breaking away of the cord from the navel. If cord is long, cut it to a 3-4"
length. If cord bleeds, tie off with surgical suture material.
(Dawson)
Number of fetuses
Goats generally have 2-4 babies, but there are rare
instances of 5 or 6 babies. Twins are average.
Signs the goat is within 24 hours of birthing
 Feel the ligaments in the red area
Ligament test
- Face the back end of the goat.
- Place your hand flat on the
goat’s back so your fingertips touch the tail.
- Spread your index and middle fingers apart
in a “v” shape.
- Rub back and forth and
feel the “cords” under the skin.
(See red line in diagram.) They
are about a 1/4” in diameter.
- (If you
know what that area feels like normally, you will be able to tell when
the doe is close to kidding, so feel this area in a goat that is not close to delivery so you know the difference.)
- When the cords loosen and begin to sag, the doe will
normally deliver within 24 hours.
- When you don’t feel the ligaments any more at all, and the
area feels like a big wad of bubblegum, then the doe is within 12 hours of birth. (Smith, 432)
Links:
See http://www.jackmauldin.com/management/detecting_labor.htm for
photographs of the signs that take place one week prior to birthing. When you see these signs, get the doe to the
birthing area. There are also
pictures of the signs the she is very close to delivering.
Signs of labor
Early labor:
1) Goat seems restlessness
2) She lays down and gets up often
3) She makes a "nest" in the bedding, often off in
a corner or in a dark, private place.
4) Looks back at her tail to see what is happening.
5) White discharge appears
Late labor:
1) Discharge increases
2) Hard labor pains about 2 minutes apart
3) Lips curl and ears stand out from straining
4) Bubble full of fluid appears and breaks.
5) Larger bubble appears
6) Both feet appear, followed by head and body, or both feet
appear, followed by butt, body and head.
If something else appears, see the "Abnormal
Presentation" section.
Summarized from www.goats4h.com/Pigman.html, Haskell, Herd Health Program,
and interviews with experienced producers.
Supplies needed for birthing
- Bucket for warm water
- Long, OB gloves (Fleet Farm) , or if you are not using
gloves, then you need a nail clipper and nail brush to clip and clean your
fingernails and hands, and Betadine (povidone) scrub to disinfect your hands
after you wash them, and before assisting a difficult birth..
- Surgilube or KY Jelly or Walmart brand Equate Lubricating
Jelly (lots of it.) Keep it where it won't freeze.
- 7% iodine and small cup or empty prescription bottle for
dipping navel. Keep it where it won't freeze. Available fromWalmart.
- Propylene glycol
- OB Loop (rubber is best) (Fleet Farm sheep section, or
Hoegger and Caprine Supply Catalog)
- Newspaper separated into single sheets for wiping off
babies. You'll need lots of it.
- Scissors
- Dental Floss for tying off umbilical cord if it bleeds
- Molasses or dark Karo syrup. Keep it where it won't freeze.
- Paper towels
- Udder wash (Fleet Farm, goat/cow supply catalogs)
- Clean old towels (You can buy these at Goodwill, rummage
sales etc. You'll need a dozen or more of them.)
- White board, markers and eraser (to record births)
- Blank neck tags and nylon cord to assign numbers to baby
girls, and marker to write with. (NASCO Farm and Ranch Catalog)
- Birthing record sheets (see Forms section of this site)
- Index card box and tabbed index cards. (Office Depot)
Write the kids number on the tab and keep their records on that card. (See Producer tips section for
details.)
Time of birthing
Goats generally birth after midday, less commonly at night. (Haskell, Caprine and
Cercidae Reproduction)
Uterine Inertia
Older goats sometimes can't expel their kids due to weak
uterine muscles. A helper can hold up a doe's belly, maneuvering it to get kids closer to the vaginal opening so
that another person can reach in and grab them if the mother can't deliver. (Nickel, P.19)
What to expect after birthing is over
A discharge (lochia) will be seen for up to three
weeks post-birthing, but it should not smell. If it continues longer, or
smells, then the uterus is infected and you should call the vet and have the
goat treated. The uterus should return to pre-pregnancy size
within 4 weeks of birthing. (Smith, 431)
The goat should be milked out into a separate container and
the colostrum should be heat treated and bottle fed to the newborn as soon as
possible after birthing. You can milk her on the pipeline, but do not put
colostrum into the pipeline and bulk tank. Use a mini-milker to milk the
newly delivered goat after all of the well goats have been milked, but before the sick or mastitis goats are
milked. If the goat is very weak, you may need to milk her by hand. See the nutrition section for instructions on
heat treating and feeding of colostrum and milk to kids.
You may want to give the mother some warm water with Karo
syrup or molasses in it after she births. Watch her carefully for several
weeks after birthing. If she stops eating or seems ill, call the vet.
Birthing Links
Kidding photos:
Difficult Births (dystocia)
See the diagrams in Harvey Considine’s book Dairy Goats for
Pleasure and Profit at p. 108. Shows
different ways the fetus can be arranged in the uterus and what to do to help
the doe deliver.
Pre/Post Kidding Preparations For Dairy Goat Does and Kids http://www.goats4h.com/Pigman.html
This article contains complete instructions for delivering
kids where the presentation is abnormal.
Breeding
Body condition score during breeding season
Body Condition Score should be 2.5-4.0 at the beginning of
breeding season, and should be maintained throughout pregnancy. If a goat has a
body score of 4.5 or more, or under 2, the goat very likely will get pregnancy
toxemia.
Breeding cycle
Three parts of breeding cycle (Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction):
(1) the non-breeding period,
(2) the transition period at
the beginning and end of the cycle, and
(3) the main breeding period.
|
When to breed for best success? 6-28
hours after the onset of heat *
|
|
Heat Period
|
Before heat
|
Standing heat **
|
After standing heat
|
After heat
|
|
Hours after onset of heat
|
|
0
|
3
|
6
|
9
|
12
|
15
|
18
|
21
|
24
|
27
|
|
|
When to breed for best success
|
Too early to breed
|
Good
time
|
Excellent Time
To Breed
|
Good
time
|
Too late to breed
|
(Table adapted from Damerow)
* Heat: the female reproductive cycle
**Standing heat: that point in a doe's heat cycle when she
is receptive to the buck
General breeding patterns in tropical and temperate climates
Tropical climates: goats potentially can breed year round.
Temperate climates: heat cycles begin in response to
decreasing light. The amount of light
outdoors diminishes as summer gives way to fall, and this stimulates heat in the
does. (Smith, 412)
Breeding "in season" in Wisconsin (breeding September - December, birthing February - May)
In temperate climates, goats can potentially breed August
through March. (Smith, 412)
The doe is usually bred 45 to 60 days into her lactation and
should be bred every year. (Harris and
Springer)
Breeding "Out of season"
Using lights to stimulate out of season breeding
Since heat starts in response to diminishing light, you can
stimulate “out of season” heat cycling by putting a timer on your barn lights.
Set it for 20 hours a day starting January first. Leave it at 20 hours for 2 months. Do this for both the does and the bucks. Then reset the timer to 15 hours a day on
March first and slowly decrease the # of hours of light until you are at the same
daylight hours as the outside light.
Does will come into heat in May.
You may need to pen them with the buck instead of breeding
individually, as the heat period may be shorter than normal, increasing the chance you will miss the heat
period. (Kapture)
When you use lights to stimulate heat you need to get the
does bred just as soon as they first come into heat. Don’t wait. If you happen to have a period of intense early
spring heat outdoors 2 weeks before the does are bred (mid-April), it shuts off their heat period, and
this can result in half of the pregnancies not developing. It destroys all your work with the lights.
Check does at 18-24 days post breeding. If in heat, the first breeding didn’t
take. Rebreed. (Considine, 92)
To get adequate light for out of season breeding, you will
need one foot of fluorescent light fixture (hanging 9 or 10 feet off the floor) for every 10-11 square feet of
floor space. The man who invented this program used fixtures with two four-foot long fluorescent bulbs. You can use other fixtures as long as you get
the same amount of light.
(Kapture) Some extension offices
have light meters that can be loaned out to test the lights levels in your barn to make sure you have enough
light.. Also, don’t forget to wash your
barn light bulbs after fly season.
Does bred out of season have a heightened risk of
hydrometria (cloudburst) pregnancy. The
doe looks and acts pregnant, but isn’t.
(Smith)
Using Progesterone, Progestins with gonadotropins, Prostaglandin to stimulate breeding
Breeding Older Does
There are two management options to decrease risk to older
does.
1) If you need milk production, just milk her through and
don't breed her every year.
2) Of you need kids more than milk, you can extend the
length of her kidding years by drying her up after kidding. Then let her rest until the next breeding. (Nickel, P. 19)
Buck harnesses for recording breeding
You can buy "ram" harnesses that can be used on
bucks. When the harness is put on the buck, and the buck mounts the doe, chalk rubs on her backend, letting you know that
she has been bred. When she comes in for milking you can see the chalk and write down the breeding date. This
really helps when you are pen breeding.
The harness which is sold at Fleet Farm will not stay on the
buck and causes sores on the buck's chest. You must sew the straps so they don't loosen and slide around and pad
the chest piece with sheepskin.
For an alternative, see http://www.premier1supplies.com/img/instruction/24.pdf
. There are also good instructions there for using a buck harness.
Flushing
"Flushing" (adding supplement to increase nutrition prior to and just after breeding to
increase kidding rate) is not necessary if the doe has a good body condition
score (BCS 3-4) If body condition score is low (2 or below) then flush with 0.5-1.0 lb. of whole shelled corn/head/day.
(Hart, Goat Management Tips)
Forms
Breeding plan
(PDF)
Excel Chart that allows you to coordinate breeding of
different groups of goats
Breeding Plan
(Word) Excel Chart that allows
you to coordinate breeding of different groups of goats
Breeding and
Birthing Chart Excel chart that
allows you to record breedings and births
Birthing
Schedule
Excel chart that allows
you to keeps track of which does are due on which dates. Good for
planning the rest of your life around your birthing
schedule!
Links
Buck fertility and stamina
Buck preparation for breeding season
-The buck should be weighed or weight-taped, FAMACHA scored
and Body Condition Scored 3 months prior to breeding. This will
give you time to build up it's weight and body condition before breeding season
if it is not adequate.
-The body condition score should be 3-3.5. If it is higher or lower than that, adjust
feed to achieve correct score before entering breeding season.
-The FAMACHA score should be 1 or 2 (pink inner eyelid). If 3 or higher, treat with anthelmintics. (See drug database in Medical section.)
-Just prior to breeding season, clip excessively long hair
from underside
-Trim feet
-Check ease of movement.
Does the buck have trouble walking?
Hip or leg pain? If so, he will
not be able to mount the does. Find
another buck.
-If you buy a herd right before breeding season and the buck
is too fat, do not put him on a diet at that time. Keep feed steady, and make sure you don’t feed any extra feed. Move food and water apart so he gets exercise. He will also run off excess weight chasing does. (this section summarized
from Mangelsdorf, p. 23)
The scrotum
Scrotal circumference should be at least 25-28 cm. at 100 lb
(45 kg.) of body weight. (Coffey, G, 9)
Scrotal circumference predicts the fertility of daughters,
so you want a buck with a large scrotum. (Smith)
Make sure both sides of the scrotum are the same size, are
smooth and lump-free and are well attached. (Mangelsdorf, p.23)
The scrotum should not have two separate
oblong chambers, but instead, one chamber with a indentation
between the two
areas. (Smith)

No
Yes
Number of does serviced per buck
1 full grown buck can service 50 does. He should not service his own daughters.
(Smith)
A mature buck is capable of breeding over a hundred does per
year, but often is asked to do less. (Belanger, 152)
Semen concentration
Normal semen concentration: 2 billion sperm per cubic
centimeter of semen, with at least 70% of them moving forward. (Smith)
The following stressors may affect conception rate: moving
the buck right before breeding time, sore legs, feet or back, illness, poor nutrition, obesity, too thin.
(Mangelsdorf, p. 23)
Extreme heat due to the environment or due to fever from illness
can kill sperm cells. (Mangelsdorf, p. 23)
Sperm cells ready to ejaculate today were processed in the
testes up to 60 days ago, with the average being 6 weeks. Therefore, the first ejaculations may contain poor quality
sperm. (Mangelsdorf, p. 23)
Signs that the buck is ready for breeding
A buck will coat his front legs and beard with urine. He will do anything in his power to get to
the does in heat,including breaking down fences. He can be dangerous during this period, so
don’t ever turn your back on him, especially if you are trying to remove does from his
pen. It is best to put does on a long
leash before putting them in his pen. That
way you can pull them back out of the pen without having to go into the pen to
get them.
Testicular or penile problems
|
Symptom
|
Cause
|
|
Smaller or softer than normal testes
|
May indicate atrophy (shrinking of tissues), decreased
sperm count, or hermaphrodictic (inter-sex)
infertile buck
|
|
Swollen, hard, painful testes
|
May indicate inflammation from infection or injury
|
|
Hardened, shrunken testes
|
May be due to chronic infection or old injury
|
|
Scalded areas, scabs or discharge on penile sheath
|
genital disease or infection
|
(Summarized from Mangelsdorf, p.23)
Selecting economically importent genetic traits with the highest heritability
|
Body system
|
Trait
|
Importance of Trait
|
Heritability
|
Economic Impact
|
|
Skeleton (conformation)
|
correct feet and legs
|
Ensures buck’s ability to feed, exercise, and breed does.
Affects daughter’s ability to feed, exercise, enter and
leave stand for milking
|
High heritability
Readily affected by breeding choices
|
High
|
|
a level topline and strong back
|
Buck and daughters: support of reproductive and digestive
tracts
|
|
long body length
|
Buck and daughters: increased capacity to carry food
(which increases daughters milk daughter’s production) and to carry multiple
fetuses.
|
|
wide rump, level side to side and front to rear
|
Enables strong udder support and greater area of udder
attachment
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adequate width thru chest floor
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Gives room for large, healthy lungs
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Reproductive soundness
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lack of urinary calculi
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Better health for buck.
(Genetics affect it, but if have tendency, it can be exacerbated by
poor management)
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High heritability
Readily affected by breeding choices
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High
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willingness to breed
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Increase pregnancy rate. (Genetics affect it, but if they
are reluctant to breed, may be exacerbated by pressure from bolder bucks,
illness, penile infection, sore legs/back, too much excess weight or too thin
and weak.)
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correct genital anatomy
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Allows buck to breed
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semen quality, number and motility
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Increases conception rate
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Lack of disease
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Decreases incidences of sterility or reduced sperm count.
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Soft tissue
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skin
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Not important for commercial production, only for show
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Less heritability
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Low
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ear type
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hair color
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markings
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(Complied from information from Bowen, also Mangelsdorf, p. 21,22,23)
Links
Anatomy of the buck reproductive organs http://kinne.net/fertbuck.htm
Buck Care Should be a Priority Year-round, But Especially
During Breeding Season. Dairy Goat Journal, Vol. 84 No.6, November/December 2006, p. 22.
Choosing the Right Buck. Dairy Goat Journal , Vol. 84 No.6,
November/December 2006, p. 21.
Fertility and Sterility in the Buck http://kinne.net/fertbuck.htm
Heat (estrus, oestrus)
Duration of standing heat
24 hrs. for doelings, 2-3 days for mature does (Smith, 412)
Heat detection with a buck rag
-To make a buck rag, simply take a rag and rub it over the
bucks genitals, beard and other areas where he has soaked himself with urine.
Put this rag in an air-tight jar.
It is ready for use whenever you need to detect heat. If you want to breed does singly, you can expose them to a
buck rag when they come into the barn for milking. Put the rag under their nose. Does in heat will have an immediate reaction to the rag.
Heat stimulation
Using a teaser Buck to stimulate heat
You can put a whether in with the does for a couple weeks
before you want to breed them. This will
start the heat process so they are ready when the buck comes in to breed..
(Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Using a teaser buck is the best method of detecting
heat. (Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Using the "Buck Effect"to stimulate heat
Keep the buck out of sight of the does for three weeks, then
let the buck in. Lutenizing hormones will surge in 48-72 hours. (Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Ovulation
Ovulation is the release of the egg that, if fertilized by
the buck, will form a fetus or fetuses. It occurs 24-48 hours after start of heat. Therefore, the best chance of conception is
near the end of the heat cycle (Smith, 412)
Breed on day two of standing heat for best results. (Harris
and Springer)
Signs of heat
- Doe walks restlessly along fence, looking for a way to get
to the buck.
- Vulva is swollen.
- Tail wags vigorously.
- Doe urinates more frequently.
- Appetite decreases.
- Milk yield decreases.
- Doe stands firm when buck mounts.
- Doe exudes a clear, colorless discharge at beginning of
heat, progressively becoming more opaque and white in color as heat progresses. (Smith, 412)
Signs that heat is ending
You will see a cheesy white to yellow colored mucous in the vagina
Sound of a goat in heat
Synchronizing heat for group breeding using "the buck effect"
-The buck pasture should be far enough from the breeding doe
herd so that scent emitted by glands located behind the base
of the buck's horns will not induce heat in does.
- 7 to 10
days before you want to breed the goats, bring the buck into the area. In about a week, the does will come
into
heat.
- Before running the buck with a group of breeding
does, it is a good idea to let it breed some cull does to flush its
system because the sperm that has accumulated during
the off-season is of low quality. (Luginbuhl)
Time between heat periods
-Heat periods come every 21 days. (Smith) (Haskell, Caprine
and Cervidae Reproduction)
-Don't assume the doe is pregnant just because she was
bred. Check the doe 18-24 days after breeding. If she is showing
signs of heat, the breeding didn’t take. Do it again.
-You have six chances, once every three weeks, to get a doe
bred in the natural breeding season, September – December.
Infectious reproductive diseases
Milking Through
Some goats will “milk through.” That is, they will continue
to milk for long periods, even years, without being bred back.
If your herd is well established, and you have all the does
you can handle so you don’t need new babies, consider not breeding the ones that milk the longest. Let them milk through and keep the milk
production up while the others are dry. (Considine)
Pregnancy
Average length of pregnancy
Average length of pregnancy is 150 days or about 5 months
(145-156 normal range)
Goats bearing triplets often kid
slightly earlier, at about 149 days.
Goats with single kids kid
at approximately 151 days.
Doe kids tend to be carried one day longer than buck kids.
Birth weights of twins are
approximately 0.91 of the weight of a single dairy goat kid.
Birth
weights of triplets are approximately 0.82 of the weight
of a single dairy goat kid. (Smith, 431)
Dry period
-Goats should be allowed to rest 2 months before
birthing. Since there is a 5 month
gestation, the goat can milk 3 months after being bred, and then rests month 4 and
5. The rest period allows the goat’s
mammary system to repair.
(Haskell, Mastitis)
- Many producers put an antibiotic treatment such as
“Tomorrow” into the udder at dry off to prevent mastitis. Others merely seal off the udder to prevent bacteria from
entering the canal. (Example product: SureSeal.)
Both are very effective at preventing mastitis. (Haskell,
Mastitis).
- Very high producing does need a longer dry
period. If you do not allow your does to
rest, they will produce only 65-75% as much milk in the next lactation. (Harris and
Springer, 1996). (Haskell, Mastitis)
Fetal development
Hydrometria (also called "false pregnancy" or "cloudburst pregnancy")
Hydrometra definition: The goat is bred, appears to be
pregnant (does not cycle again, abdomen enlarges), yet at birthing the
goat will discharge a large
volume of fluid, but no placenta or fetus. (Smith 416)
Chance of hydrometra increases in:
- Pregnancies during the transition periods (very early, or
very late part of the heat cycle)
- Pregnancies from off-season breeding
- Pregnancies from artificial insemination
- Pregnancies from chemical manipulation of heat (estrus)
(Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Diagnosis of Hydrometra:
When scanned from either flank, late in pregnancy, you will
see large fluid-filled compartments, which undulate when the goat moves. You will not see a fetus. White flecks may be seen in the fluid when
the abdomen is moved, and the flecks settle like snow after movement stops. .See a real-time ultrasound image of
hydrometra in (Smith, 417)
Correction of the condition is achieved by treatment with
prostaglandins. Directions for
veterinarians are found at (Smith ,418).
Pregnancy testing
Hormonal assays
-Estrogen sulfate is used after the 50th day. This is
a very specific test. Positive is a live fetus. Negative is less
exact, as it will show either an open animal or one that has aborted.
-Progesterone 21-24 days post breeding. Levels greater than
1.0 mg/ml are pregnant, less than 1.0 are not pregnant. Elevated
progesterone will also be seen in false pregnancies (hydrometra), a collection
of pus in the uterus (Pyometra), mummified fetuses and still
births.
-Farm-side Elisa tests for cows also work well for goats.
-PSPB (pregnancy-specific protein B) can be used after day
24 post breeding. Greater than 1.0 mg.
indicates pregnancy, less than 1.0 not pregnant. Hydrometria will show no level. Can be elevated for a substantial time, so it
should be used in conjunction with an ultrasound if you suspect an abortion.
(Haskell, Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction) See also Smith at page 414 for a
table summarizing pregnancy diagnosis techniques for goats.
-BioPryn pregnancy
testing
www.biotracking.com
Ultrasound
Amplitude depth ultrasound is unsatisfactory
for goats (Haskell, Reproduction...)
Doppler ultrasound can be used for goats.You can detect fetal heart beat on rectal exam 35
days post breeding. Fetal heartbeat can
be detected through the abdomen after 45 days. (Haskell, Reproduction...)
Real time ultrasound: If you use an equine linear array unit
with 5 mHz transducer, embryo can be detected rectally 25 days post breeding, or abdominally later in the
pregnancy. (Haskell, Reproduction...)
Also see “ultrasounds” in this section of the website for
more detailed instructions.)
Xrays
X-rays can be used after day 65 of the pregnancy, but the
best picture can be seen at days 90 post breeding.
This method is not recommended as it is very expensive, and
field x-ray units are not able to penetrate the abdomen sufficiently to get a
good picture, so false negative results are common. (Haskell,
Caprine and Cervidae Reproduction)
Signs of pregnancy
-Absence of heat: After you have bred a doe, check her again
after 18-24 days. If she is showing signs
of heat then she is not pregnant and needs to be bred again. If she shows no signs of heat, then you can
assume she may be bred. (Belanger, 92)
-Increased elasticity of the skin around the vulva and pin
bones is an indication of pregnancy.
-An enlarging abdomen can be a sign of pregnancy. (Smith,
414-415, 432)
-A slight enlargement and smoothing of the wrinkles that
normally are around the vulva is a sign of pregnancy
(Smith, 414-415, 432)
-Development of an udder is not proof of pregnancy, even in
young yearlings. (Smith, 414-415, 432)
LInks:
Reproduction and The Bottom Line (April 2011) http://www.luresext.edu/goats/library/field/sparks2011.pdf
Reproduction in the Goat (videos) http://www.goatbiology.com/animations/reproduction.html
Goat Gestation Calendar free download to use on your desktop. http://www.goatbiology.com/animations/gestcalculator.html
Video of a goat giving birth http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYr7EgyQnOk
Video of a goat giving birth http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnIzxfUl5rQ
Video: Billy Goat behavior in breeding season http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtTzb_VAu-k&feature=related
Video: Goat behavior, mating, feeding http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVI2vQ3LEYw&feature=related
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